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Tuesday, 17 September 2013

And so we venture to Austria…



Feeling quite solemn from our time in Magic Wood I was a little bit apprehensive about our first destination, Silvapark. 3 days of rain to begin our stay didn’t make for a brilliant start, I managed to work the moves on a 7c+ called ‘Flechtenkante’ and as I was about to go for the send the heavens opened and drenched the slopey arête. Could this be the end of our Summer in Europe? Is winter heading our way quicker than we thought? Living at nearly 2000m and temperatures dropping to 8-10 degrees on a night definitely got us asking ourselves those questions!
Tuesday, 20 August 2013

Lost my Magic in Magic Woods

So once again it’s been a while since I last posted, my priorities have been more to climbing every day than hunting out internet to blog about it… I’m sure you all understand ; )


After a highly successful trip to Gottardo and temperatures slowly dropping we headed to arguably the most famous bouldering area in Switzerland, Magic Wood. Keen to test myself on some well known problems we set about searching in the maze of a forest, hiking up and down, in and out, giving my knees a battering with just with the walking around. After a day of scouting out some of the problems I had seen or heard about we bumped into a friendly German guy called Mathew, who was just like us hunting around for things to try and eagerly looking for more pads and spotters to help with his project ‘Foxy Lady’. We kindly obliged and headed there with high hopes for the classic line. An hour or so down the line with Mathew happily giving me the beta I sent it with my last ounce of energy (clearly visible in the video as once I’d hit the jug and headed for the last few metres to top out I was so pumped out even the largest of holds seemed a problem!).

Saturday, 27 July 2013

Onwards to Switzerland…



Ok, so it’s been quite a while since my last post. We spent a week in Val Daone concentrating more of my efforts on building camp fires on an evening than I did to my climbing. The area has a lot of climbing but unfortunately it didn’t look too inspiring. I found a few cool looking lines but psyche was running quite low, following on from Val Masino’s grades everything felt quite hard too! I spotted a very impressive looking line up a 30 degree wall full of crimps, it was given 8b but looked possible given that it was all my strong points; a lot of moves through tiny crimps on a wall just steep enough to make things interesting. I finally plucked up the energy to give it a good go and spent a good hour working the moves. I managed every move and just had one section left to link; so happy with my efforts for the day I decided on one more attempt to get the link and call it a day, sharp crimps had my skin in bits so a day’s rest before a go at the full send would have been perfect. Typically on that final attempt I hit a climber’s worst nightmare… I got the link but burst a fingertip. Not just a slight hole but I pulled hard enough to put the crimp straight through my tip, making a very deep hole with blood dripping down my hand. That put an end to Val Daone : ( we had planned to leave in the next few days so it wasn’t too bad but meant the 8b had slipped away when I felt so close.

Saturday, 22 June 2013

The Final Days of Val Masino




3 weeks in and a constant ass whooping with the grades of the problems; most of the strong climbers in the valley prefer routes. Hence the boulders developed by them are stamina fests, this is not my usual short powerful 5-10 move problems and I have been falling off and struggling on 7b’s to 7c’s, I definitely didn’t think I would bag an 8a before we left this beautiful valley. However, on a sunny day in Val di Mello I found something just my style a seven move 8a called Il Vento. By no means did this go easily, the angle of the boulder to the angle of the dipped ground coupled with a very low toe hook and a poor smear to start is a recipe for dabbing.

Saturday, 15 June 2013

Greasy Granite

 Lake Garda

I have been a bit lax on the blog front; after Melloblocco we spent 2 weeks travelling Italy with friends, taking in some sites around Venice, Pisa and Lake Garda. Then after 2 weeks relaxing we arrived back in Val Masino raring to climb. Only we were met with nine days of continuous rain, and after going stir crazy hiding in the van, the weather finally improved with the arrival of our ‘Targasonne’ friends Jason and Claire.

Monday, 6 May 2013

Caio Italy


Val Masino

After a relaxed start to Italy with my parents at Lake Como a few days with good food, good company and a hotel stay, my parents departed for the airport and we set our replacement sat nav for Mello. The aim being to arrive a few days before the infamous festival, giving us time to look around, we had a walk through the valleys and got our bearings and managed an impromptu climbing session on a classic, Jesus Christ Superstar.

Jesus Christ Superstar

Sunday, 7 April 2013

Targasonne Revisited



Ever since we were snowed out of Targasonne on our first visit it has always been the plan to pop back in on the way past on our route to Italy. When we arrived conditions were perfect, the snow had been and gone so we got a few solid days of climbing; I was able to visit sector Taz, an area which we didn’t get to visit as we were chased out by the snow. 

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