Sunday, 7 April 2013
Targasonne Revisited
06:13
Ever since we were snowed out of Targasonne on our first visit it has always been the plan to pop back in on the way past on our route to Italy. When we arrived conditions were perfect, the snow had been and gone so we got a few solid days of climbing; I was able to visit sector Taz, an area which we didn’t get to visit as we were chased out by the snow.
First up was the awesome looking 7b Le Seigneur des Anales, a perfect problem, loads of tiny crimps on an overhanging wall. I’m not usually fond of a traverse but the extended start looked particularly good, so after a bit of brushing and eying up the sequence I found myself at the top of the extension first go, a very nice 7c+. Close by we found a short but steep roof with two problems, both from stand, a 7b+ to the left and a 7c+ to the right. After working the 7c+ for a couple of minutes I had made the big flick to lip of the roof I was topped out and considering the 8b sit. After spending the rest of the day working the sequence to the sit, getting so close and falling at the top hold I was begrudgingly persuaded to leave it for the next day. That evening we were browsing the internet and after looking up the sequence for the 8b sit I realised the numbers on the rock were back to front and that the 7c+ and 8b sit were actually the line out to the left, not the right. A day wasted working the wrong problem had me demotivated, but the next day we popped back for a look. After flashing the 7c+ (the correct left hand line) motivation soon came back and I started working the sit, Le Tombeau de Damme Panc Ashash.
The most commonly used sequence we had seen on the internet was short but very powerful, I soon discovered another method adding a few extra moves in. After a lot of screaming and a lot of heels slipping and several attempts with power dabs; clipping the pad so hard in one attempt I managed to fold the pad completely, I even tried removing the pad but was punished by landing coccyx first onto the rock below. 5 minutes rest later with the pad back in position and a mental note to keep my feet high on the cut loose everything seemed to work and I bagged myself the problem without any dabs.
What seems to be a running theme with Targasonne and this time of year the next day the snow came and we once again left for lower, warmer ground. Whilst planning our route to Lodeve we noticed the bouldering world cup was to be held in Millau; 45 minutes away from Lodeve it seemed a shame not to call in and show our support to the British team. Our travel mascot Cookie accompanied us to the event and we soon snapped him entertaining Anna Stohr and Kilian Fischhuber with his charm and good looks. He caused mischief for the whole event and as the finals came round we then found him cheering on Shauna Coxsey with the rest of the British team.
After two days rest spent watching the world cup we were psyched to get back on some rock, so with Cookie back on his perch in the van we hit the road once again. Next stop Lodeve…
Labels:
bouldering,
climbing,
targasonne,
world cup
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1 comments:
cookie is becoming quite the celeb amongst the climbing world! xx